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"Fukui"
Explore the temple life and local flavor in this oasis of calm, green and peace. |
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Japan welcomes many thousands of tourists every year. Those looking for the high tech, high pulse excitement of Tokyo, the rich style and modern trappings of Shibuya and Yokohama, the nostalgia of Kyoto, or the entertainments of Osaka... And then, there is you. Looking for something else. Let me show you, how deep the roots of Japan grow.
Come with me, to the western province of Fukui, nestled in the center of the Honshu Island and pressed against the coast of the Sea of Japan. One of the least populated prefectures in the country, Fukui has much to offer to those travelers looking to get off the beaten track. In the streets, forests and mountains, along the rivers and coasts of this pastoral prefecture you will discover a peaceful space to experience and enjoy the beauty of Zen.
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Zen Buddhism is a simple and quiet spirituality, built upon living in harmony with nature and one’s environment. And Fukui prefecture was where this spirituality was first established, where it was raised, and where it continues to flourish. In Fukui, you can come to know the many roads by which Zen can be realized.
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Let our journey begin at the birthplace of Japanese Zen, Eiheiji Temple.
“When Dogen Zenji named Eiheiji, he wrote: “When heaven has the way, it is high and clear, when the earth has the way, it is substantial and at rest, when people have the way, they are calm and peaceful…Above the heavens and below the heavens, this very place is Eihei (Eternally Peaceful).” [-Zen. Alive. Fukui]
Dogen Zenji established Eiheiji, the Temple of Eternal Peace, and Soto Zen Buddhism in Japan in 1244. The temple was to become the home and training center of the Soto Zen sect. Over the next 800 years, life in and around the temple flourished. The teachings of the Zen Master interwove into every aspect of the local culture and from here spread across Japan.
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Enjoy ambling through the shops and stalls as you climb up the hill to Fukui’s most well-known temple. Explore the buildings and gardens while learning about the lives of the monk-trainees who live and learn within the temple walls. With over 70 structures and buildings in the 330,000m2 temple grounds, you can enjoy the craftsmanship and artistry of its halls and even take part in the morning chanting of sutras before Buddha.
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Bathe yourself in the sounds of the mountain and the voices of 100 monks reciting those ancient lessons.
At the temple, visitors can experience the power of Zen by joining a zazen workshop. Meditation is an important practice within Zen Buddhism, as it is one way to practice non-attachment. The seated practice of meditation, known as zazen, allows us to explore and release our thoughts and desires. By sitting and stabilizing the body, mind and breath, the harmony of self and environment is manifested. In his teaching, Dogen Zenji states zazen is not the path to Enlightenment, it is itself Enlightenment. Take your first plunge into these teachings and prepare you mind and body for the journey ahead.
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Hakujukan:
Peering into Zen
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Perhaps simply peering into the monastic experience is not enough, in which case, a stay at the Hakujukan Hotel presents the ideal environment for you to enjoy the ways in which Buddhist life blends into modern Japanese culture. Built in 2019, this ryokan (Japanese Inn) is a new addition to the Eiheiji experience. Take part in an in-depth zazen practice led by specially trained staff; indulge in Fukui’s famous good-quality water in the hotel’s open-air baths or showers, and of course savor the delicacies of Fukui prefecture such as crab, puffer fish and Wakasa beef or try the Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. Hakujukan Hotel allows visitors to become intimate with Zen from the comfort and hospitality of a Japanese inn.
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Shojin Cuisine:
Taste the Moment
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Next in the journey is nourishment. Food is the source of life and Fukui prefecture is home to deep cultural practices regarding food and health. Shokuiku, the education about food and nourishment started by a Fukui medical doctor, Ishiduka Sagen, in the late 19th century, is a precursor to several modern dietary movements such as the macrobiotic diet and Slow Food movements. It comes from Buddhist teaching 身土不二 (shin do fu ji / body and land cannot be two). The human body cannot be separated from its surroundings. This is a key to understanding and enjoying Buddhist cuisine.
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Known as shojin-ryori, this culinary style treasures the local, the seasonal, and those ingredients connected to the present moment. These seasonal ingredients help draw depth and richness in your connection with the land. Using only plants, shojin-ryori teaches us how to treasure each ingredient which has given its life that we may be nourished. Shojin-ryori can be enjoyed both at the temple itself, as well as at various restaurants and inns in the area.
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Daianzenji Temple:
Bringing Zen to modern life
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Another peaceful space to explore Zen in Fukui city is Daianzenji Temple. Originally built in 1658 as the family temple of the Matsudaira Clan, the family mausoleum with 10 lords from the clan are venerated here. Connected to Rinzai Zen Buddhism, this temple is known for its breathtaking architecture, vast rose, hydrangea and iris gardens, and Zen experiences.
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While the temple’s history is long and deep, the head priest works to find ways to bring these traditions closer to modern life. Many traditional Zen experiences, such as zazen meditation sessions, shabutsu (tracing Buddhist imagery), and kirie (cutting paper to make Buddhist-themed imagery) are offered. |
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Also you can try your hand at shakyo, ink and brush calligraphy while copying sutras with matcha, Japanese green tea. However, if the timing is right, you can enjoy concerts, art exhibits and even yoga classes at this hilltop temple. Visitors can also enjoy shojin ryori there. For the best experience, advanced reservations are recommended.
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Matsunaga Rokkan:
A Prayer for Peace
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To further your Zen experience, follow your senses into the southern half of Fukui prefecture. In the city of Obama, you will find Matsunaga Rokkan, home to Myotsuji Temple. Built in 806 by the Heian period shogun, Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, the main building and the three-story pagoda is classified as national treasures. While Tamuramaro was the shogun general and head of the military of his time, he deeply understood and valued the necessity of peace. He had Myotsuji Temple built as penance, to pray for peace in Japan.
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From the home base of Matsunaga Rokkan Fujiya Inn, you can explore the natural beauty and deep spiritual history of the area. Experience Ajikan meditation in the ancient Myotsuji Temple. This breath focused practice from the Shingon Buddhist sect allows you to connect yourself deeply to the world around you.
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Branch out into the community, feeling the Zen spirit alive in various local artisan pursuits such as the touring Tobaya Vinegar Brewery, a brewery with a 300-year history, or Kurimoto Woodwork Studio, where you can make your own hand carved dish. The area is also great for an outdoors adventure. You can enjoy walking and trekking to the local Sanban Waterfall or using a rental bike to explore the wider region. There are many ways to enjoy the Matsunaga region.
Return in the evening to the quaint 5-room Fujiya Inn to enjoy the local style of Buddhist Cuisine, prepared with ingredients from the adjacent farm. Feel your ties to modern life painlessly break and drift away as you are lost in this oasis of calm, peace, and beauty.
Have you found something through your experience of Zen in Fukui? By starting your time in Japan’s old country in this way, you can prepare your mind for the adventures ahead. Reconnected to nature, to the moment and to yourself, you will be ready to explore the many sides Fukui has to offer. Join us in part two, as we explore the artisan spirit in Fukui.
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Plane:
Komatsu Airport (KMQ) is the closest airport to Fukui, with flights available from Tokyo, Sapporo, Fukuoka and Naha. There is an express shuttle bus from the airport to JR Fukui Station.
Train:
Access to JR Fukui station is simple via the Shirasagi Limited Express train route from Nagoya and Thunderbird Limited Express train routes from Osaka/Kyoto. From Tokyo, transferring from the Hokuriku Shinkansen at Kanazawa, or Tokaido Shinkansen at Maibara is the quickest ways to get to Fukui by train.
Rental Car:
Fukui Prefecture rarely experience heavy traffic, and with abundant free or inexpensive parking getting around by car is smooth and pleasant. Car rentals are available airports and train stations.
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Eiheiji Temple:
Hakujukan:
Daianzenji Temple:
Matsunaga Rokkan Fujiya Inn :
Tobaya Vinegar Brewery :
Kurimoto Woodwork Studio :
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